January 18, 2011

MILAN RECAP - DOLCE & GABBANA IS ALL OVER THE PLACE


A SURPRISING SHOW FROM THE MENSWEAR DUO 
BUT NOTEWORTHY NONETHELESS

This show reminded me a little of Madonna. Stay with me on this. When Madonna was in her teens and twenties dressing up in tutu's and cone bra's and singing about lucky stars and isla bonitas, she was - if nothing else - doing something fresh and young. She returned season after season, album after album reinventing herself into everything from a bullfighting, evita obsessed latina diva to a charmed English rose. As time went on however, it became more and more clear that Madonna was simply running out of ideas (Ray of light album anyone?). At this point Madonna had two choices, pack up her things and head to Broadway a la Deborah Gibson, or put her ear to the grind stone, see what the kids are doing and pass it off as your own idea. BOOM - option B has been the genius of Madonna's last 10 years. By teaming with Timbaland and Timberlake and borrowing tracks and styles from the days hottest dj's and stylists, Madonna has managed to stay relevant and even, after all the borrowing make some interesting and fresh music. 

I don't mean to discount Dolce & Gabbana's talent when I say this, but it sure seems like the two have lost a little bit of the direction and inspiration that has marked nearly every one of their collections to date. When I think of a D&G show I think of well thought out and perfectly executed imagery of an italian man wearing clothing that romantically illustrates the story that the designers are trying to tell. This time around we saw a very different, highly eclectic Dolce and Gabbana. Showing low waisted trousers followed by high wasted, monochromatic followed by bright color and bold texture, broad lapels and collars paired with razor thin collars - it is clear that 2011 is all about what the kids are wearing - all of them. 

The common thread among this mix and match of italian meets new york street style can be found in their signature tailored sport coats and the chunky Doc Maarten looking brogues. Add to this some high notes in their inventive fabrics (my favorites being those that fade into more bold patterns and stripes) and the show turns out to be worthwhile albeit scattered. I'm really into the skinny suspenders as well as the exaggerated waist lines - while the line felt a bit more like a look book for a big city boutique, I enjoyed virtually every look. Begged borrowed or whatever, Dolce and Gabbana seems determined as Madonna to stay relevant men in a boys world.  Images below. 

- brother
















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