WHATEVER THE INSPIRATION - IT WORKED
Geller told the press that he was inspired this time around by films by Italian film maker Visconti and that he wanted to bring that Italian flair to his collection. Bottom line, I'm not really seeing Italy here - but what I am seeing are some ideas that I think will be bursting into our wardrobes really soon. The first thing Geller seems to be pushing in a big way is the idea of a waisted man. He is belting nearly every look at mid torso or even higher and managing to create his silhouette without moving the needle too far toward the effeminate. Look to see this belted notion hitting more mainstream retailers this fall as menswear steers a bit more toward the refined, looking less mountain main and more international man of mystery.
Geller also seems enthusiastic with the man bling, studding belts and gloves wherever he can and even adding gold plated pocket squares. We saw this man jewelry trend pop up in paris in the collections of Versace, Galliano and several others - again suggesting that the cosmopolitan man is making a return this year and that he intends to sport a heavy handed dose of bedazzle. If you are a bit weary about going all out with a belted look, start with a multi finger ring or a studded tie bar - just to get your wits about you first ;).
The final and perhaps biggest influencer of Gellers design seems to be coming from North African esthetics. Geller lets this through in his head pieces and shoulder wraps emulating what we saw from Damir Doma and Haider Ackerman in their spring/summer collections.
All in all, Gellers muted pallet featuring one button jackets, club collars and even some denim managed to push the envelope of mens fashion while still appearing very street ready. It is that tricky balance of theatrics and reality that determins the difference between good designers and great designers. There were a lot of remarkable collections shown at Mercedes Benz Fashion week this year, but Geller for me is one of the most significant examples of this true balance and genuinely beautiful clothing. Check him out HERE.
- brother.
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